Edi Simcic

When it comes to the wines of Edi and Aleks Simčič, several descriptors spring immediately to mind: unrivalled, world-class, controversial… and by all standards, unique. Unlike so many of the stainless-aged Italians, even the whites of Simčič are fermented and aged for long periods in oak, often earning comparisons to high-end French wine. Multiple critics rank the estate among the very best in Eastern Europe and, as humble as they are, their name is quite well known to all the top producers in next-door Friuli. In terms of low yields, no one has higher standards than Edi Simčič. Toward that end, Aleks and his family don’t even own a sorting table. Working as a team, grandfather Edi, son Aleks, and grandson Jure make 3 passes per varietal per harvest, selecting each individual berry through sunlight. It’s no wonder their wines average just 700 grams per vine - closer to a half-bottle per plant than one bottle!

Today, the family works side by side on 12 hectares of tiny, non-contiguous crus spread out over hillsides in the tuckaway villages of Vipolže, Kozana and Fojana. Altitude varies, going from 90 meters up to 300, and exposition runs from south to west. In the cellar, all wines are fermented and aged in French oak barriques – a minimum of 10 months for the whites, and up to 4 years for reds. Needless to say, keeping tabs on every barrel and every vintage is a monumental task! One of our favorite sights is Aleks in the cellar, displaying his enormous, handwritten spreadsheets used to track each barrel and its variations. Every time he shows us, Aleks breaks into a broad grin - somewhere in between the world’s most peaceful farmer and a mad scientist extraordinaire.

For those unfamiliar with the area, traveling to Slovenia can be a magical experience. Goriška Brda has a dreamy, timeless quality to it: hamlets are nestled into the green hillsides rising toward the Alps, creating a gorgeous, tiered landscape. Although further north, the quality of light is distinctly Mediterranean. Artists and artisans can be found everywhere, including keen-eyed, intelligent winemakers who are nonetheless down to earth, and world-class chefs in rustic settings. (With everything produced just a few paces away, the term “farm to table” scarcely begins to cover it.) Truly, this little corner of the world one is of EU’s best kept secrets.