Giocato

Aleks Simčič, of the Edi Simčič estate in Slovenia, is considered by many to be one of the finest winemakers in Eastern Europe. Located just meters over the Italian border and next door to Colli Orientali in Friuli, Simčič lives in Goriška Brda, a lush, subalpine zone that actually belonged to Italy until the end of World War II. It also happens to be one of the region’s best areas, perhaps THE best area, to grow white varietals. Long-aging, intense, and sophisticated, his single estate wines now rival the best of France. In addition, Aleks also works with a handful of growers at the local co-op to make a series of affordables. When we challenged him, “can you make a fantastic, expressive, mineral-driven white for under $15 retail?” his answer was Giocato, a terrific wine that raises the bar on inexpensive Pinot Grigio. Low yields lend it great viscosity, and the palate offers a perfect balance of tropical fruit and acidity. As with the high-end wines of Edi Simčič, everything Aleks touches, it would seem, turns to gold.

As his own estate is too small to produce Giocato on its own, Aleks makes the wines in conjunction with the organic co-op, Vinska Klet. Established in 1957, this collective of small, independent farmers is wholly devoted to organic farming - including dry farming – and maintains a philosophy close to his own. Working with a small number of growers with whom he has long-standing relationships, Aleks is able to choose the best hand-picked grapes that his neighbors have to offer. While they’re sourced from a number of sites in and around the village of Vipolže, the average vine age remains 20-30 years and the average altitude 180 meters, so the price-to-quality ratio remains lofty. As with next-door Friuli, the main soil type is ponca, a carbonate-driven clay full of salts and minerals that lends structure and poise to unoaked whites. Yields for the Giocato series are also remarkably low, at just under 1 bottle per plant!